“The way of water has no beginning and no end. (...) Water connects all things, life to death, darkness to light.”
It makes up around 60% of our bodies and 71% of the earth’s surface: water, the element considered essential for the existence of life 🌎. This universal solvent flows, bends and curves; able to take on any shape and defy gravity by soaking upward. Under normal Earth conditions, it exists in 3 versatile forms – gas, liquid and solid – the latter commonly known as ice. But even in its most massive solid form, a close auditory inspection on a balcony in the deep south of the Argentinian patagonia reveals that water is propelled to do what is does best:
Being on the move…
The Dynamic ‘River of Ice’: Perito Moreno
Within the borders of Los Glaciares National Park rests the dense body of ice famously known as … Perito Moreno 🧊. Named in honor of the Argentine explorer and academic Francisco Moreno, this 18,000- year-old glacier captivates around a quarter of a million nature enthusiasts every year. And with good reason. Not only is it set amidst dramatic landscapes, characterized by endless plains, ancient Andes mountains 🏔️ and crystal-blue lakes, it is also renowned for its relatively easy accessibility, dynamic activity and periodic rupture events.
Unlike other glaciers, the Perito Moreno has managed to maintain a state of equilibrium for centuries despite rising global temperatures 🌡️. It undergoes a cyclical process of advance and retreat depending on the season. Though alarming reports of sudden retreat have been published in ‘23, the glacier has always been one of the liveliest’ of its kind, slowly deforming and flowing under its own weight at a rate of about 2 meters a day.
Violent Ruptures
Uniquely, because of the crystalline structure of ice, water has a lower density in its solid form than its liquid form. This allows ice – and hence, glaciers – to float on water. The Perito Moreno flows from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field into Lake Argentino, advancing right across the lake.
(🧑🏻🏫Pssst… teacher Marie note #1: the density of a substance tells us how much mass exists per unit volume, i.e. 1 dm3 or 1 m3).
Roughly once every 4-5 years, the glacier reaches the other side of the lake, creating a natural ice dam that prevents lake water from circulating from one side to the other. With the entrance of additional meltwater, the water pressure rises to a level so high it eventually causes the glacier to rupture catastrophically with huge pieces of ice crashing violently into the aquamarine lake 💥. Woa!
The Sound of Aliveness
Now, while you might prefer to keep a distance during these major ruptures, it’s worth noting that smaller, mini-ruptures occur approximately every hour, and they are entirely safe to experience from the designated viewpoints.
Personally, I remember them vividly.To the eye 👁️, the glacier is seemingly static, so immense – Perito Moreno covers an area of about 250 square kilometers – it is difficult to comprehend that its structures are continuously shape-shifting.
(🧑🏻🏫Pssst… teacher Marie note #2: Gravity ‘pushes’ glacial ice downward and causes it to deform as it ‘breaks’ under the pressure of its own immense weight. At the base, the glacier can slide over land on a thin layer of water).
Yet, though looks may deceive, the sounds escaping the icy tongue are undeniable proof of its liveliness 👂. Standing before its towering walls, averaging 74 (!) meters in height, you’ll quickly notice how the eerie stillness of Patagonia is interrupted by an almost haunting melody of creaks and groans.I remember the crisp air crackling in anticipation of the occasional, ear-piercing roars produced by rupturing chunks of ice. These sudden sounds, reflected by the neighboring ice, bounce around the landscape and echo off the nearby mountains 🏔️ like cautionary ancestral calls, sending a resonating rush of adrenaline coursing through your veins.
Mix in the distant ‘oh’s and ah’s’ of visitors, the shrieking cries of birds and what you’re left with is an unforgettable auditory testimonial to the rawness and fragility of our ‘deceptively permanent’ icy realms.
No – acoustically, there’s nothing ‘mini’ about these ruptures.
The Power of Movement
As the Perito Moreno advances and retreats, it profoundly shapes the landscape around it. Like a true ‘river of ice’, embodying the fluid nature of water, it doesn’t resist the obstacles, but rather ‘shapes’ its way around them ↪️↩️. The landscape, however, reciprocally affects the glacier’s shape. It’s a harmonious interaction between the elements of water and earth; a natural showcase of how, as humans, we too can find ways to progress in this life.
Listen carefully and the glacier will whisper secrets with no beginning nor end:
Shape and be shaped. Advance. Retreat. But by all means, move. Even if it involves ruptures, creaks and cracks. It’s the way darkness connects with light.
Practical Tips
🧊 Find tours and accommodation in the Argentine town ‘El Calafate’
🧊 If you can, rent a car. This allows you to arrive at the glacier early in the morning before the touring buses do.
🧊 Dress in layers and take a windproof jacket with you. Weather can change quickly. When I visited (in early fall), there was a thick fog and strong wind.
🧊It is also a good option to visit later in the afternoon. I’ve read there’s a higher chance of ruptures around that time.
🧊 Bring cash. There are very few ATMS around and you can’t pay everywhere with a card.
🧊There are several ways to explore the glacier. You can do a boat tour on Lake Argentino, explore the walkways, go on a kayaking trip, or book a trekking tour where you’ll walk ON the glacier. This variety makes the glacier accessible for disabled travelers.
🧊 Whichever option(s) you choose, wear a quality-pair of sunglasses and sunscreen! The bright-white ice and lake water reflect UV rays in high amounts.
Take your time at the boardwalks! The mini-rupture events are worth waiting for.
For more practical information, I highly suggest this article.
Love, Marie
