The Queen of the Danube: A Royal Non-Visual Guide to Budapest

Whether it’s for the immensely popular Sziget festival, the restorative waters of the thermal baths or the quirky ruin bars, there are plenty of reasons to visit the capital of Hungary for both sighted and visually impaired travelers. 

This guide is not your regular ‘to-do’ or ‘must-see’ list. Instead, it is a collection of my favorite non-visual experiences in Budapest, which includes both educational and practical information. It features 3 experiences per sense as well as a blurry vision category

 

SOUND 👂

🥿 Memorial: Shoes on the Danube 🥿 

In Silence There is Respect: With over 1.7 million inhabitants, Budapest is the largest city along the river Danube, housing 33% of the Hungarian population. Like many metropolises, its city center roars and moves almost 24 hours a day. But along the riverside promenade lies a memorial so captivating it triggers a wave of silence right in the heart of the buzz. 

At that spot, thousands of Jews were lined up, ordered to take off their shoes and subsequently shot so their bodies would disappear into the water. The majority of these executions took place around December 1944 and January 1945, carried out by fascist Hungarian militia of the Arrow Cross Party. Sixty pairs of  iron, period-appropriate shoes now honor their memory. 

The sound transition from the loud chatter of big crowds to the silence of individuals putting down flowers is one so powerful that I found it to be thé sensory element accurately reflecting the emotional charge of this monument. 

I can only repeat: in silence, there is respect. 

Where to find it: located on the Pest side of the Danube promenade about 300 meters south of the Hungarian parliament. 

Accessibility Tip: Be careful with a cane. The shoes are right next to the river and there is no construction to protect you from tumbling into the water. 

 

🦅 Bird of Prey: Fisherman’s Bastion 🦅

The enchanting Fisherman’s Bastion is one of the main tourist attractions of Budapest, known for its Disney-like towers and panoramic views of the city. Whilst exploring, I was surprised by the loud flapping of wings and a high-pitched screech. It turned out the sounds were produced by a large bird of prey. 

Though I’m fiercely against the use of animals in touristic settings, it was impressive to hear  and see the bird up-close. It serves as a reference to Turul, a mythological bird depicted on several statues at the bastion. Turul, who appears to resemble a falcon or a hawk, is the national animal of Hungary and represents the power and will of the Hungarian god Isten. 

Where to find it: the falconier carrying the bird usually stands in front of the statue of St Stephen, the first king of Hungary, at a small square between the Fisherman’s Bastion and the Matias Church. The falconier can be recognized by the medical garb they wear. You can take photos with the bird and hold it on your arm. 

 

🍻 Ruin Bars 🍻 

Mention Budapest and I assure you many will say they have experienced some of their best party nights there. The city boasts a vibrant, world-renowned nightlife, in part thanks to its uniquely weird ruin bars. Visiting one of these electric pubs is a great introduction into the more creative and alternative culture of the city. 

Set in abandoned and run-down buildings, ruin bars are known for their quirky, vintage and retro interior, decorated with mismatched furniture, graffiti and other shabby chic art installations. Just as diverse as the interior, is the music played in their various indoor and outdoor spaces. 

Enjoy some live music or dance the night away in front of a DJ booth playing your genre of choice! Many of these bars also serve as a cultural and community hub, loved for their welcoming and open-minded spirit. Please keep in mind that the bars can get very crowded and difficult to navigate. 

Where to find them: Most are located in the Jewish quarter. The best-known ruin bar is Szimpla-Kert (it has literal bath tubs inside in which you can chill and smoke chicha). Other iconic ones include Instant-Fogas (formerly 2 separate bars, a labyrinth of rooms), Mazel Tov (a more upscale, trendy ruin-style restaurant and bar with a Mediterranean cuisine) and Anker’t (artsy with a large garden area). 

Alternatives: not a fan of bars? Then try classical music venues like the Hungarian State Opera House or search for folkloric music played with traditional Hungarian instruments at restaurants, street performances (try Váci Street) or cultural events.

SMELL  👃

 
🧖 Thermal Baths 🧖

Want to feel extra royal whilst visiting our ‘Queen of the Danube’? Then take a plunge in one of Budapest’s many thermal baths—the highest number worldwide! Sitting on a geographical fault line, Budapest has numerous natural thermal springs bubbling up from the Earth’s depths. These springs have been bathed in since Roman times, harnessed for their therapeutic and healing properties.

The medicinal water smells noticeably different from “regular” spa water. It is rich in minerals such as calcium, magnesium, silicon, metabolic acid, and sulfate, which combine to add a peculiar, rotten-egg-like scent to the baths. But don’t be fooled! Regular bathing is thought to improve circulation, respiration, skin health, bone density, and reduce chronic pain and stress. The scent adds to that ‘historic’ and ‘medicinal’ feel, transporting you back to ancient times as you sit in the stinking water surrounded by baroque columns and old cement walls.

If vision allows, don’t forget to marvel at the architectural designs of the bathhouses. They blend elements of Neo-Baroque, Art Nouveau, and Ottoman styles.

Where to find them: The best-known bathhouse is Széchenyi, located in the eponymous city park. It is famed for its grand outdoor thermal pool, where a party is hosted every month. For architectural lovers, I recommend the Art-Deco Gellért Thermal Bath situated in the Gellért Hotel. Less touristic options include Rudas (featuring a rooftop and unique octagonal pool), Király (for a more Turkish-style bathhouse), and Lukács (for a more authentic and local atmosphere).

For an in-depth review of Széchenyi, check out my Instagram caption.

 

💱 The distinctive scents of Buda & Pest  💱

Did you know that Budapest used to be two separate cities, Buda and Pest, each situated on its own side of the riverbank? The merger of these two cities, along with the town of Óbuda, occurred in 1873 and led to the construction of many iconic bridges, with the Chain Bridge being the oldest.

Two cities becoming one calls for an interesting analysis: are there differences in sensory experiences? And does one still feel different from the other?

In my opinion? Ab-so-lu-te-ly. 

I found it fascinating. Buda is hilly, more urban, dirtier, and gives the feeling that time has stood still. As the former capital of the Hungarian Kingdom, it is characterized by its medieval architecture and historical landmarks, such as Buda Castle. Nonetheless, there are hardly any hotels on the Buda side of the river, and street life feels very Hungarian compared to its international sister, Pest.

Buda simply smells… older… more historic.

Pest reminded me a lot of Vienna: the streets are squeaky clean, the buildings mostly a classic white, and one can easily stumble upon numerous bars, hotels, restaurants, squares, and more. Not surprisingly, it gained fame as a bustling trading and cultural hub, growing rapidly during the 19th century.

Pest simply smells… richer… more posh.

This difference in “air” goes to show how essential smells are for creating atmosphere. You certainly don’t need sight to know which side of the river you’re on!

Where to find them: Buda is situated on the western side and Pest on the eastern side of the Danube.

 

😖 House of Terror 😖 

Nothing can quite set the mood like a noticeable odor, and the one in this building is no exception. The’ House of Terror’, one of Budapest’s top museums, contains exhibits of the Fascist and Communist regimes of the 20th century. This, too, is Hungary. The placards on the exterior walls (shown in the images below) serve as a memorial for the victims who suffered under these oppressive regimes.

Read any review, and they will mention the same thing: the horrible smell in the basement (dungeons) of the house. It contains well-preserved torture devices, documents, and other items of oppression and smells like rotting fungi mixed with the anxiety sweat of the visitors.

That’s terror. That’s what smell does. It is inseparable from emotional experience and the many deaths tied to this ambiguously beautiful building. Prepare your nose for a chilling and thought-provoking visit!

PS: Shout-out to the modern technology and interactive displays used in this museum! Another cool (light perception) element: when the sun hits the building just right, the facade will read ‘TERROR‘ from the shadows of the roof.

Where to find it: The museum is in the same building that was once used as headquarters for the Arrow Cross Party (Fascist regime) and the State Security Police (Communist regime). The address is 60 Andrássy Avenue.

 

Bonus: Honorable ‘odor’ mentions: 

→ Encounter the enticing aroma of freshly brewed coffee, pastries and baked goods as you pass by innumerable cafes and bakeries. At outdoor food stands, pick up on the scent of traditional Hungarian street food, such as chimney cakes (kürtőskalács), sausages, and Langos (deep-fried dough). 

→ Head to the City Park (Városliget) or Margaret Island (Margitsziget) to dream away with the scent of blooming flowers and plants

→ Pay attention to the rather spicy fragrance in traditional Hungarian restaurants and markets. Hungarian cuisine is known for its use of aromatic spices such as paprika, marjoram and caraway -, celery – and dill seeds. 

→ Catch the occasional whiff of fresh river air from the Danube or the sulphuric scent of the natural thermal springs!

TOUCH 🫳

 

📖 The ‘For Sale Pub’ 📖

Want to leave your mark in Budapest? Then head over to the ‘For Sale’ pub, and let your touch receptors be tickled! Covered in hay and hundreds of sheets of papers, it encourages visitors to leave a message, drawing or memo and attach it to the wall or ceiling. The result is an ultra-stimulating decor, both visually and haptically, which blends in perfectly with the aroma of beer and wood and the taste of traditional Hungarian food.  

Bonus point: it’s popular with locals too, not just tourists! 

Where to find it: the saloon-style ‘For Sale’ Pub is located on the ‘Pest’-side, almost opposite to the Central Market. Address: Vamhaz Koerut 2. 

 

🚃 (Ancient) Transportation Systems 🚃 

No driver’s license? No problem! Budapest has an effective, and very old, transportation system. Metro line L1, also known as the “Millennium” or “Yellow” Line, is the oldest subway line in Continental Europe, opened in 1896 to celebrate – you guessed it –  Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Its Art Nouveau stations feature beautifully tiled walls and industrial-style columns and wagons that can be explored tactually. Conveniently, this UNESCO World Heritage Line stops at various landmarks and museums.

Prefer to stay above ground? Let yourself be moved by the funicular connecting the riverbanks or take tram line 2. If vision allows, both offer panoramic city views. The budget-friendly tram runs along the Pest side, providing sights of Buda Castle, the Parliament Building, and Matthias Church. These buildings are well-lit at night, making them easier to spot at these hours. 

To my water lovers, I recommend taking a boat ride along the Danube! Options include public transport services and tourist cruises, available both day and night.

 

👇 Honorable ‘Haptic’ Mentions 👇

→ Have fun with the (fish) fountain at Fisherman’s bastion! It features playful fish sculptures that you can touch and interact with. 

→ Explore Folk Art, handicrafts and textiles in shops and markets. Traditional Hungarian art incorporates interesting textures and designs. 

→ Lose yourself in the soothing warmth of the thermal baths. 

→ Investigate the distinctive features of the historic, steep cobblestone-streets of the old quarter in Buda (Víziváros). 

→ Run your sensitive fingertips over some of the (handpainted) souvenirs in the shops, the stones of the landmarks and the detailed (gold!) interior of the Parliament Building. 

TASTE 👅

🥩 Central Market Hall 🥩 

I usually avoid terms like ‘must-visit,’ but if I had to choose one activity in this guide, it would be the Central Market Hall! This place is the vibrant, bustling heart of Budapest. Both locals and tourists shop here for fresh fruits, veggies, cheeses, meats, spices, and Hungarian treats like paprika and juicy sausages. Particularly noteworthy is the seemingly never-ending selection of goose liver/pate tins.

On the top floor, you’ll find a food court offering authentic Hungarian dishes (see next section) and several souvenir shops. Visiting this floor also allows you to get closer to the beautiful, wrought iron roof

Where to find it: The CMH is housed in a 19th-century Neo-Gothic building at the southern end of Liberty Street, on the Pest side.

 

🍲Typical Hungarian Dishes 🍲 

Is any city trip complete without trying a local dish? Below I’ve listed some Hungarian classics you might like to taste. 

Savory Dishes 

→ Goulash (Gulyás): a hearty soup or stew made with tender pieces of beef, onions, paprika and other spices. It usually comes served with bread and sour cream. A warm-hearting delight on a cold fall or winter day! 

→ Paprika chicken of ‘Paprikás Csirke’: Chicken cooked in a creamy, flavorful paprika sauce, typically served with noodles or dumplings (‘nokledi’). Hungarian paprika is typically considered the most flavorful and desired iteration of the spice.

→ Lángos: A popular street-snack in Budapest. It’s deep-fried flatbread, topped with a savory tipping of choice like sausage, cheese, garlic or sour cream.

→ Hortobágyi Palacsinta: Savory pancakes filled with a mixture of meat (generally chicken), mushrooms and a creamy sauce. Baked & served with sour cream!

→ Töltött Káposzta: Cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and ground meat, cooked in a tomato-based sauce 

→ Halászlé or ‘Fisherman’s soup’: a spicy fish soup made with various freshwater fish, paprika and served with bread or noodles. 

Sweets

→ Somlói Galuska: A trifle-like, Hungarian dessert made with layers of sponge cake, chocolate sauce, rum and whipped cream. 

→ Dobos Torte: A cake composed of multiple layers of sponge cake, topped with chocolate buttercream and a caramel glaze. 

→ Kürtőskalács or Chimney Cake: A sweet and doughy, spiral-shaped pastry cooked on a rotisserie and coated in sugar and cinnamon.

 

🍷 Hungarian Drinks  🍷
Wine 

Pair your dish with a delicious Hungarian wine! The most famous is Tokaji wine, a sweet white rival of the French Sauternes. Once described by King Louis XIV as ‘the wine of kings, king of wines,’ this royal nectar pairs best with dessert. Visit the northeastern part of the country to learn more about its production.

With a savory dish, I recommend you try “Bull’s Blood” (Bikavér), a dry, full-bodied red blend from the historic city of Eger. The funky name refers to the 1552 battle against the Ottoman Empire at Eger’s castle. Legend has it that Hungarian defenders drank red wine to pump themselves up for battle, which the invaders mistakenly believed to be the blood of bulls.

Cheers to the power of a good wine! 

Other (Alcoholic) Options – Into the ‘stronger stuff’? Try: 

→ Unicum: A bitter,herbal liqueur, drank as an aperitif or digestive.  Stored in distinctively-shaped bottles that are worth checking out. 

→ Pálinka: Considered a national Hungarian drink, this fruit brandy is not for the faint of heart! It’s typically made from fruits like plums, cherries, apricots or pears. Yum! 

No alcohol? Try: 

→ Mineral Water: Um… water? Yes! Hungarian brands like Szentkirályi and Aranykéz are known for their high-quality mineral water… still and sparkling!

→ Elderflower Cordial (Házi Bodzalé): This refreshing drink is made from elderflowers, sugar and lemon. It’s especially popular in summer and most bars serve it homemade. 

→ Kompót: A sweet and comforting fruit compote, consisting of shimmered fruits, sugar and water. Served hot or cold, depending on the season. 

BONUS: VISION (for those with functional light + color perception)

 

🕯️ ‘Golden’ Night Walks 🕯️/ COLOR

When darkness falls, Budapest transforms into a golden wonderland. The city’s principal buildings become illuminated in a beautiful, warm yellow light, giving them a Disney-esque appearance. As someone visually impaired, I am deeply drawn to color. The soft, golden light contrasting romantically against the dark night sky truly makes the landmarks ‘pop,’ allowing VIPs to better observe their contours.

In my opinion, the best way to experience the city at night is by renting an electric LIME scooter (with a guide). For example, you can start at the Chain Bridge on the Pest side, scooter to the Buda side, and then continue along the river promenade until you reach the next (Margaret) bridge. From the Buda side, you will have a breathtaking view of the grand, perfectly symmetrical Neo-Gothic Parliament Building (286 m long!). Its light reflects on the Danube in such a way that a thousand candles appear to be floating on it. A sight so magical, it made me forget I have blurry vision altogether.

 

✨ Interior: Parliament  & Mosque 🕌 / COLOR + SHAPE

Equally as striking as the exterior is the colorful interior of the Parliament Building. The House features multiple chambers, meeting rooms, and offices for the country’s legislative and administrative bodies, some of which are open to visitors. In the Crown Room, you can gaze up at the 96-meter tall central dome, which from the inside resembles a giant, angular golden star. The room itself houses the Hungarian Crown Jewels (including the Holy Crown of Hungary), but unfortunately for us VIPs, you are not allowed to get very close.

Remarkable throughout the building is the extensive use of gold, a reference to Hungary’s rich cultural heritage and historical role as a kingdom and member of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The ‘Grand Staircase’ specifically seems to be covered entirely in gold leaf. Apart from the gold, the rooms are characterized by intricate ornamentation, detailed carvings, and marble columns. Their appearance is so lavish and opulent they are a sight even for less-functioning eyes.

If you’re more into pinkish and reddish hues, then visit the Dohány Street Synagogue (Great Synagogue). It is known for its Moorish Revival architecture, characterized by colorful tiles and decorative elements inspired by Islamic art. I loved the color harmony, the blend of dark brown wood with pinkish tiles, and the blue and yellow stained glass windows. Try to search for Jewish stars and take part in a guided tour to learn more about its historical significance and connection to the Holocaust.

 

👀 Shapes of the ‘Gothic Revival ‘Architecture 👀

Another visual element of Budapest’s architecture I wish to highlight is the relative pointiness of some of its landmarks. The distinctive shape of the Fisherman’s Bastion, for example, immediately caught (even) my eye. Its towers are very pointy with conical, spire-like tops, giving them a fairytale-like appearance. No wonder I saw several newlywed couples there.

The pointy tops and triangular arches are typical of Neo-Romanesque and Neo-Gothic architectural styles. These elements evoke a sense of historical nostalgia, acting as a reference to classic medieval fortifications and castles. The Parliament Building, built around the same time as the Bastion (1895-1902), also has beautiful spiky needles on its facade.

Where to find it: The Hungarian Parliament: Kossuth Square (Pest side), the Great Synagogue: Dohány street (Pest side), Fisherman’s Bastion: Szentháromság tér (near Buda Castle and Matthias Church, Buda side) 

 

🤩  FINAL Bons Tip! 🤩  

Combine your visit to Budapest with a popular annual event! 

Budapest Spring Festival (March/April)

→ Danube Carnival (June)

The F1 Hungarian Grand Prix (July)

→ Sziget (Music) Festival (August)

→ Christmas Market (December/January)

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